This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s fresh guide to LagosI was born in Lagos, but my family moved abroad before I turned one. Even then, it was a capital my parents visited frequently because many of our friends still lived there. If I travelled with them, there would be halts for some delicious chocolate ice-cream. When I didn’t, my kids brought up beef cakes from fast-food stores that had not set up shop in Ilesa, where we lived. The Lagos of my youth was thrilling for trips to the shore and dancing with cousins at home parties while uncles and aunties pressed clean pesos notes against my face, it was the area of unrestrained pleasure. I particularly looked forward to walking around the Church Missionary Society’s ( CMS ) bookshop in Marina, one of the oldest bookstores in Nigeria. By then it had been renamed Church and School Supplies ( CSS) Bookshops, but no one seemed to have taken note of that. Established by preachers in the 19th century to promote Holy poetry, it had expanded its reach to books and educational supplies by the time I went there with my home in the early 1990s. I loved it for directly published stories and English-language adjustments of the turtle tales my mother told me. Patabah shop, which’ became a favorite during my stay in Lagos for Nigeria’s National Youth Service ‘ © Manny JeffersonAs I grew older and began to travel into or through London on my own, I found its strength overwhelming. I sought relief in shops, and I continue to recommend them for someone seeking to discover a city of like vivid creative energy. Patabah Books became a favourite during my stint in Lagos for Nigeria’s National Youth Service, a mandatory scheme in which most young Nigerians are posted to various parts of the country for a year after tertiary education. I had been posted to another city but was eventually deployed to Lagos. My placement at a bank’s head office required me to travel daily from Ojodu, on one end of Lagos, to Marina on the other. An average working day saw me leaving home by 5am and returning around 9pm. Saturdays were devoted to catching up on lost sleep and discovering the city with friends. It was during one of these Saturdays that I stumbled upon Patabah. Now located in the Adeniran Ogunsanya mall in the Surulere district, this bookstore has been a key part of the vibrant book community in Lagos since 1987, when it was founded by Olatokunbo Somolu, the first female Nigerian to earn a doctorate in engineering, and her husband Foluseke Somolu. I enjoy pausing there to browse their shelves whenever I’m in the mall, and I never leave without a new must-read. It’s a great store for discovering various self-published titles, alongside books by Nigerian and international publishers. Beyond book sales, Patabah has been a cornerstone of the literary community through book clubs and literary events. I vividly remember being inspired to go home and continue working on my first book by the shared energy of readers and writers in one space while attending a reading there. Whether I’m browsing in store or scrolling through its Instagram page, it’s a place I cherish. Adedotun Eyinade, co-founder of Roving Heights bookshop in Lagos © Manny JeffersonOver time, my ambivalence towards Lagos dissipated and I eventually moved there eight years ago. During the past three years, my family and I have divided our time between Lagos and Norwich in the UK. I long for Lagos when I’m away, but in the first few weeks after I return I feel like a small-town girl in the city, unsure again about how to navigate the hustle and energy that so many Lagosians find invigorating. On days when I can’t be bothered to step out, Roving Heights is my reliable fix for all things books. They have a dependable delivery service, having started out as the online-only venture of sister and brother Oluwatobi and Adedotun Eyinade and Adedotun’s wife Adebola. After running the bookshop for three years out of their dining room, the Eyinades were able to open their first brick and mortar store. Roving Heights ‘ Victoria Island store has become one of my favourite places to return to time and again. Whether you’re searching for contemporary African fiction, global bestsellers or niche self-help titles, it makes it easy to find exactly what you need. Staff are also always happy to call in titles from their branch in Surulere if they don’t have what you are looking for in store. The thoughtful curation of this bookshop extends beyond the shelves — Roving Heights collaborates with Open Country magazine to release an annual bestseller list. This list offers an insightful glimpse into Nigerian reading tastes and is often topped by books published locally ( and available at Roving Heights ), many of which you won’t find outside the country. Jazzhole is a go-to in Lagos for books, music and art © Manny JeffersonJazzhole in Ikoyi is an experience — whether you’re looking for books, art or records, its charm invites you to linger. From timeless classics to bold contemporary works, it offers a selection of new and used books that feels deeply personal, as though each title has been chosen to spark something in the reader. It’s the kind of place where you stumble upon books and magazines you didn’t even know you were searching for. If you’re lucky enough to run into founder Kunle Tejuoso while in the store, he can give you stellar recommendations about books and music. In addition to its literary offerings, Jazzhole is renowned for an eclectic collection of vinyl and CDs, catering to music enthusiasts with diverse tastes while curating and archiving an impressive selection of African and Afro-diasporic Black music. The store also has a performing space for gigs and recently released two LPs of Nigerian music: Faaji Agba – Eroya and Asiko Tito. The café within Jazzhole adds another layer to its charm. Serving a variety of beverages and light snacks, it’s the perfect spot to relax. Jazzhole is a space where the buzz of Lagos recedes, replaced by the soft hum of conversation, a melody from a vinyl record in the background and the rustle of pages being turned. Ouida Bookstore in Opebi is the heart of a dynamic cultural hub known as Ouida Lagos. Established by award-winning writer and publisher Lola Shoneyin, this creative haven also includes a café, a workspace, a publishing house and a gift shop. The bookshop champions local authors and showcases the continent’s rich storytelling heritage. With selections of contemporary African fiction, poetry, and non-fiction, there’s something meaningful for every reader. The friendly staff enhance the experience, offering personalised recommendations that make each visit memorable. Writer and publisher Lola Shoneyin, who founded Ouida. . . © Manny Jefferson. . . a cultural hub that as well as a bookstore also has a workspace, publishing house and café © Manny JeffersonOuida’s events add another layer of vibrancy. From” Sip and Paint” sessions to open mic nights, there’s always something happening to spark creativity and connection. The January edition of its recently launched Iseda event series featured the presentation of a new book by Nigerian author Nnamdi Ehirim. Ouida is more than a place to find books — it’s a community for creatives and a celebration of African voices. If you’re in Lagos, don’t miss this gem. Book Nook in the Lekki Phase I neighbourhood is my most recent bookshop find, and it is already a beloved space. It’s located on the busy Admiralty Way, and I’ve enjoyed popping in after trips to nearby banks, malls or restaurants. This intimate bookstore stocks various genres and titles from across the world. You’ll always find interesting cookbooks here, some of which have previously been recommended by founder Uzo Orimalade on Kitchen Library, her YouTube interview series about cooking and books. I love buying children’s titles here as they maintain a carefully curated range of diverse options that entertain, inform and inspire. As someone who picked up the love of reading as a child and wants to share this with the little ones in my life, Book Nook always has something for me to treasure. Ayọ̀bámi Adébáyọ ̀ is the author of A Spell of Good Things ( Canongate ) What’s your favourite bookshop in Lagos? Tell us in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter Cities with the FTFT Globetrotter, our insider guides to some of the world’s greatest cities, offers expert advice on eating and drinking, exercise, art and culture — and much moreFind us in Lagos, Madrid, Copenhagen, London, Hong Kong, Tokyo, New York, Paris, Rome, Frankfurt, Singapore, Miami, Toronto, Melbourne, Zürich, Milan, Vancouver, Edinburgh and Venice
Tips from the top: novelist Ayọ̀bámi Adébáyọ ̀’s favourite Lagos bookshops
